Chandni Chowk

There is nowhere quite like Chandni Chowk. Laid out in the 17th century by Shah Jahan's daughter, this is one of the oldest and busiest markets in India — a labyrinth of lanes crammed with wedding finery, silver, spices, books, electronics and every kind of street food, all in a glorious tangle of rickshaws, wires and noise.

Each lane has a specialty: Kinari Bazaar for wedding trims, Dariba Kalan for silver, Khari Baoli for spices (Asia's largest spice market). It's overwhelming, exhausting and utterly unforgettable — the beating heart of Old Delhi.

• ›Khari Baoli, Asia's largest wholesale spice market.
• ›Dariba Kalan (silver) and Kinari Bazaar (wedding finery).
• ›The street food — this is one of India's great eating streets.

Go on foot or by cycle-rickshaw; cars are hopeless here. Many shops shut on Sundays. Keep valuables secure in the crush, and come hungry.