Mumbai's Irani Cafés

Among Mumbai's most beloved and endangered institutions are its Irani cafés — century-old establishments founded by Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran, with their high ceilings, marble-topped tables, bentwood chairs and gloriously faded charm. Sitting in one feels like stepping into old Bombay.

The menu is a comfort classic: soft bun maska (buttered bun) dunked in sweet Irani chai, spicy keema-pav, berry pulao and crumbly mawa cakes. Once numbering in the hundreds, only a handful of these cafés survive — which is exactly why they're worth seeking out.

• ›Order bun maska and Irani chai — the signature combination.
• ›Look for the surviving classics around Fort and Kala Ghoda.
• ›Soak up the old-world atmosphere; it's the whole point.

These are casual, cash-friendly, no-frills spots with bags of character — not fancy cafés. Go for the heritage as much as the food.