Hyderabadi biryani & old-city eats

No Indian city is more synonymous with a single dish than Hyderabad and its biryani. Born in the kitchens of the Nizams, Hyderabadi dum biryani — fragrant basmati and marinated meat slow-cooked together under a sealed lid — is a national obsession, and the city is full of legendary institutions serving it.

But the Nizami food legacy runs deeper: melt-in-the-mouth haleem (a Ramadan speciality), rich kebabs, nihari, and the beloved ritual of Irani chai with Osmania biscuits in the city's old cafés. Eating your way through Hyderabad is a highlight in itself.

• ›Authentic Hyderabadi dum biryani.
• ›Haleem, especially during Ramadan.
• ›Irani chai and Osmania biscuits at a heritage café.

Biryani is best at lunch when it's freshest. Haleem is a seasonal Ramadan treat. Ask locals for their favourite institution — everyone has strong opinions.